Ladakh
Ladakh as we all know is a dream destination for bikers where both men and machines are tested. It is the highest motorable road in the world which is surrounded by one of the best scenic view mountains you will ever come across while riding. I went to Ladakh in 2017 with my best friend and will be sharing all the necessary details you need to plan for your road trip.
There are 2 main routes which you can take while planning Ladak Trip :
Route 1 : Srinagar >>> Leh >>> Manali
Route 2 : Manali >>> Leh >>> Srinagar
There are many tour packages available which will mostly take you to Srinagar to Manali route which is easy as compared to Manali to Leh route. All the highest passes are between Manali and Leh so if you start from Manali then you are directly exposed to the mountains as compared to the Srinagar route where you are exposed slowly. So this way if coming from Srinagar you are slowly but surely getting trained to take on some of the highest mountain passes in the world.
Note : Many times the situation at Srinagar is not good to travel due to tension between India and neighboring countries. So the only option which is left is to Manali >>> Leh or Leh >>> Manali. Many bikers do a road trip from Manali to Leh and return on the same route or vice versa but there is a catch in it. If you are renting a bike in Manali or Leh in any circumstances you are not allowed to take your bike to another city. You will have to rent another bike after reaching Leh or Manali. But if it is your bike or car then there is no problem.
The route which we took was Manali >>> Leh >>> Flight back home from Leh.
You can only travel Ladakh between May-Oct depending on snowfall. Always keep an eye on the weather and the safer option is to travel in August month. If you want to experience snow then you can travel in May end or June but beware of temperature drops even in August month during night temperature can reach -2.
Manali to Leh is 473 Kms which can be done in 2-3 days. It is preferable to do it in 3 days so that you can enjoy your ride in the mountains instead of just riding non-stop for 2 days. Manali to Leh can be divided into 3 days trip where you will be stopping at 2 small towns in between to take rest at night.
Manali >>> Jispa 153 kms
Jispa >>> Pang 161kms
Pang >>> Leh 174 kms
Manali
To reach Manali is not that easy as there are no direct trains available nor there is any airport in Manali. The nearest airport is Kullu Manali Airport which is 52 km from Manali. Keeping mountains in mind, it will take around 1.5 – 2 Hrs. We took a seating bus from Delhi to Manali which costs around 800-1200 Rs. It’s an overnight bus journey which is the best option as compared to flying as you slowly start climbing higher altitude and your body adapts accordingly. The bus will drop you a few km before Manali from where you will have to rent a taxi to reach Manali. Try to bargain or share your ride with other passengers as the price which they quote is on the higher side.
Day 1 : We stayed in Old Manali which is a good place to hang out but the cost of living is on the higher side and it is less crowded. We reached around 3 PM, took some rest and in the evening we started searching for bikes. You will find rented bikes almost everywhere in Manali but make sure to check prices in 3-4 shops and compare bikes condition as well. The latest bikes are way better options compared to older bikes.
While finding a bike we found 2 more riders who were looking for bikes so all four of us started looking together and together we rented 2 bikes. The cost of renting a bike is between 1200-1500 Rs per day. We rented bikes for 1200 Rs and gave extra 10000 Rs for bringing bikes back by their riders because we were not coming back from Leh. After finalizing bikes we went window shopping and bought our-self some winter wear clothes and gloves along with rope bungee cord for tying our luggage and polythene cover for luggage. Covering your luggage is very important as you will be riding through hard terrain where there will be no road at all and you might get occasional rain or snow. You will also have to take Jerry Can for extra fuel because there is no petrol pump for 365 Kms. All these mentioned items are easily available in Manali Mall road.
Manali to jispa
Day 2 : We left our hotel at 7 Am took our rented bikes and started loading our luggage. We were 4 people riding 2 bikes without any tour package and on our own with no backup vehicle or mechanic to tag along. We were given extra tubes and clutch and brakes cables just in case if something goes wrong along with Gumboots for riding in the rain. Our bikes were brand new with very few Kms. We left Manali city at 8:30 and after a few Kms just the outskirt of the city we did our breakfast. Daily breakfast is very important in the Ladakh trip as you will get very limited food options on the way so always eat heavy breakfast. From this day we started eating Diamox tablet daily which is helpful for those who might experience altitude sickness (Please check with your doctor before taking it).
The first day of riding is to be taken slowly where it’s a 153 Kms ride where Rohtang pass is the first big hurdle to cross. Rohtang has many stories of its own where you cannot travel after sunset. It is said that you see strange illusions of imaginary people trying to call you while riding and due to this your focus shifts from riding to looking at them and due to this major accidents happens at such extreme heights. Rohtang is 1305 Feet in height and the meaning of Rohtang is Haadiyo ka dher (Valley Of Death).
While crossing the Rohtang check post you will see a lot of traffic. You need permission to cross and we did this one day before through an agent while renting bikes. So make sure you have permission to cross. As soon as you cross Rohtang check post the views are breathtaking. You start to climb higher altitude very fast which sharp turns which takes you to the top very quickly. Soon you will realize within 1 Hr that you are now above clouds and Manali city will be vanishing quickly from your sight. You will see many bikers on your way smiling at you or waving you best of luck. Soon you will catch this and you will start doing it for every biker who will cross you. This is a trend in the whole journey where you will experience this from every biker wishing good luck to each other.
We reached Jispa around 5 PM and decided to continue our journey and stretch ourselves more which was a mistake which we realized later. We wanted to go to Keylong which is 22 km more ahead of Jispa. As I said earlier that this is your first day so take it slow. But we left Jispa and started our journey in the dark which is not at all recommended and just 5-7 km away from Jispa there came to a checkpost where we came into our senses and decided to stay. Jispa has many good hotels and they only last one which you will find when riding till Leh. So you want that luxury which you will not get ahead then stay at hotels in Jispa. But if you want to save some money and get used to the way all bikers spend their nights then stay at the first checkpost which comes after Jispa. Here you will find many roadside small Dhaba which have beds and blankets where you can sleep. The charges are between 100-200 Rs per person depending on your bargaining skills and they do serve food which is also at a very cheap rate.
Jispa to pang
Day 3 : Temperatures at such high altitude goes down very low during the night. It was our first night experience and yes the night was chilled. So always come prepared accordingly. Today we started our journey at 7 in the morning towards Pang which is 161 km from Jispa. Today will be the first day where you will cross small roadside river streams which are nothing but melted snow coming from the top of mountains and crossing through roads. You will counter many such crossing in between which becomes tricky as the day progresses because of the high temperature at the day where snow melts more so more water comes out of it. So always make sure to leave early so that you have less water while crossing and never take risk of crossing it at night.
You will cross Baralachala pass today along with many other passes at high altitude. Today roads will be different and you will be climbing higher altitude from today onwards as compared to Manali to Jispa route. The roads today will be very scenic to take perfect photos along with river crossing. You will come across zig zac roads today where many sharp turns will be there and you will enjoy it as a biker. You can have your lunch after crossing Nakeela pass where we had our first Maggie which is very famous in India in all mountain regions. Always keep your eye on the distance left and always make sure you reach your next destination before sunset. Today we were riding 161 km so we took many photographs in between and took our much-needed photoshoot time to reach Pang just before sunset.
Note : Pang is at a height of 15280 feet which is quite a height and we were not prepared for it at all. This is the maximum height you will come across where you will be spending the whole night. Everest base camp height is 17598 feet so you can just imagine the altitude at which we were and that too without any proper gears. We were, as usual, staying in one Dhaba where they provided one blanket, and inside it was a little bit warm but I suffered from the fever that night and all of us were struggling the whole night because of the -2 or -4 degree temperature whole night. Locals gave us information that roads are closed in winters where the whole area is covered under snow even their whole Dhaba is under the snow. So you prepare yourself accordingly for this night. Also, stars gazing from this height was one of the best experience.
Pang to leh
Day 4 : After a bone-chilling night we woke up at 5 and left early today before 6 am. Leh is 174 km from Pang but today you won’t feel that Leh is far from you. Roads are best in today’s ride and mostly you will cruise through it. Today you will find plain roads that will have no end to it as far as your eyes can see. You will be surrounded by mountains while riding on both sides but they will be far away from you to reach. I have never seen any such roads in my life where everything is so far away from you and road is endless where you can cruise for more than 100 km non-stop.
Today was a special day as it was 15th Aug which is Independence Day in India. So while leaving Pang we saw many soldiers marching around and celebrating Independence Day. I went to Ladakh with a skateboard and today’s road was perfect for skateboarding. So we were having some great fund at 15000 + feet with a skateboard.
We were 50 km away from Leh around noon. 15 km before Leh there is a school name Druk Padma Karpo which is famous because of the Bollywood film 3 Idiots. So as a fan we did visit this school which was ok and a must-visit if you are a fan of 3 Idiots movies.
Entering Leh was a different undescribed feeling. I have never seen such a deserted area which was surrounded by mountains. Leh is at 11480 feet height and this is still very high but you will still feel comfortable here after spending your night at Pang. You can find many hotels/hostels or homestay in Leh to stay. We were climbing hotel stairs which were on the 3rd floor and this is where we first time realized that it is not easy to stay at such a height where your lungs are gasping for air. So make sure you don’t do much physical work at such heights.
Day 5 : Today was a relaxing day for us. After continuously riding for 3 days non-stop, you need to take it easy. Today you can explore the local market and Leh palace. Don’t forget to try the local cuisine. We tried Thupka which is a local dish including many vegetables in a soup which keeps you warm. Also, do some shopping from here and you can buy printed T-shirts whatever design you want to print. Mostly every biker takes a T-shirt where I conquered the Ladakh region is written along with Map printed on it which is kind of cool.
Note : On your relaxing day make sure to rent new bikes as you are not allowed to take the same bikes to Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake. Also, don’t forget to take permit today only where shop usually opens from 10 Am but always ask locals who can guide you.
We submitted our old bikes today which were supposed to go back by arrangements done by the bike owner and we arranged a new local bike for the journey ahead around Leh.
Khardungla & Nubra valley
Day 6 : Today was the most important day where our dream as a biker was going to get accomplished. Yes, we were riding today to the highest motorable road in the world. It’s every biker dream to at least go once in their lifetime to this place and feel that achievement that they have conquered the highest peak on their bike. Khardungla is 40 km from Leh. We left early in the morning around 5 Am. We were the only ones traveling to khardungla pass during that time so the road was pretty much empty. You will pass through one check post where you have to show your permit.
Road to the highest motorable is different every year because of heavy snow and landslide the road is rebuilt now and then. So during our time, the Road was in good condition so we reached khardungla pass around 6:30 Am. If you want to enjoy the signboard picture of the highest motorable road alone then reach early when no one is around. The feeling to reach the highest motorable road was amazing, we were speechless and our whole 5 days journey to reach here and conquer it was something so satisfying that we were in self-doubt that we finally did it.
Note : Many visitors who visit khardungla face breathing problems at 18380 feet. It is also advisable that you do not spend more than 20 minutes here. You need to be well prepared for it and if you are directly flying to Leh and planning to come khardungla the next day then please don’t do it. You first need to get climatize accordingly to come here for which you at least need 3 days at Leh. If something goes wrong then there is a military base camp at khardungla where you can always take help from them in case of an emergency. If by chance any emergency arises then they take the patient directly from the helicopter to a lower altitude. So sometimes this place can be scary and one has to take all the necessary precautions.
After taking countless photographs at khardungla we started our journey towards Nubra Valley which is 120 km from khardungla. Now we were going through an actual desert where mountains view were changing drastically as compared to Leh which is still a desert mountain. But Nubra Valley was a proper desert which is famous for dunes and double hump camel. Temperatures are on a higher side over here as compared to khardungla so you might experience a drastic change in weather which sometimes is not good for the body and after returning I did suffer from fever the whole night. But we did have fun on camels and as usual, took some great photographs which were our major goal. We left Nubra Valley early to reach back Leh before sunset. Overall Leh to Nubra and return is 320 km which is a lot if you want to do some activities along the way and return before sunset. In short, you have to cross khardungla pass twice a day which is very hectic so plan your adventure accordingly. Better to stay one night at Nubra Valley and explore.
Note : If you see in Google maps then there is one bypass road which takes you directly from Nubra Valley to Pangong Lake where you don’t have to go through the mighty khardungla pass but sometimes the road is closed. So always inquire locals about the road situation when in Leh and plan accordingly. In our case, the road was closed so we came back to Leh and went to Pangong Lake from another road.
pangong lake
Day 7 : While having dinner, we eat dessert after the main course meal because the last meal should be the most satisfying one. Same way Pangong Lake is such a destination which you need to visit last for an epic finale. Pangong Lake is 222 km from Leh which takes around 5 hours to reach. We left around 10 Am after complete rest over conquering khardungla twice in one day. Road to Pangong is not the best if you compare all the roads and sceneries you pass by to reach Leh from Manali. But everything comes to a halt when you see Pangong Lake from a distance from the first viewpoint. Pangong Lake is mesmerizing and a dream place for every traveler. After you will reach this place you will feel that proper much-needed mediation vibes where you can just watch the lake, glare at the mountains, and just think about the whole journey and your life that how you came so far just to witness such great beauty of nature.
We reached Pangong Lake around 4 PM and selected the tent which was closest to the lake. You just don’t stop at the very first tent you see at Pangong make sure to survey all and choose the tent which is close to the lake. Tent price was around 2500 Rs per person which included evening snacks, dinner, and morning breakfast. We witnessed one of the best sunset of our life at Pangong which is at a height of 13862 feet above sea level. It was our best night for star gazing and I promise you never in my life I saw so many stars through the naked eye. We were at such a height that stars were looking so close to us and with the view of lake and mountains the place was magical. But the temperature even in mid-August was very low at night.
Note : This place is a photographer’s worst nightmare where you will not be satisfied even after clicking photos of stars the whole night. To date, I have clicked my best photos at Pangong with countless stars in it. Come well prepared with extra batteries for your gadgets because after 8 or 10 PM there will be no electricity at this place. The whole tent city runs on a generator and they shut electricity down after dinner.
Day 8 : Whole night we were clicking photos of stars and didn’t sleep at all but no complaints because we witnessed our best sunrise ever. Later we went to 3 idiots movie spot which is very famous in Pangong. This place is very photogenic where they have arranged all the proper props like yellow scooter of film’s heroin and that famous 3 idiots seat. We spent 3 hours here getting tanned on Sun and going through mixed emotions of saying goodbye to this amazing place.
Note : Go to this place in your best dress possible to click those perfect memories photographs. We went there with Lungee and I think we were the first people on earth to do that at 13862 feet. All visitors around us were laughing but what’s the fun as a traveler if you don’t do some crazy things. Most tourists leave this place by 10 Am and later you see other tourists coming to Pangong in the evening. So the best time to be alone in this place is around noon. But always make sure to reach back Leh before sunset which takes around 5 hrs.
Day 9 : Always keep spare days with you just in case your bike breakdowns or something else happens with you. So day 9 was our leisure day where we did nothing and just relaxed and spend the final day exploring the Leh market and shopping for friends and family.
So this was my journey in Ladakh where we did not face any major problems and completed our journey with great memories and came out of it as a better person. I hope I help you out in planning this trip and gave some important tips and experience which might help you out to plan your next adventure. Feel free to contact me for any other information if you need it.